Friday, February 8, 2008

Eight Months in Madagascar and I Still Love It Here!!

Wow, it's hard to believe that I've lived in Madagascar for almost eight full months. This is the longest that I've ever lived abroad, and I'm quickly learning that the "expat life" is for me. Sure, I've faced a roller coaster of emotions and a cyclone of challenges, but I am loving every minute of my life here. I don't often have the opportunity to update my blog due to limited internet access; thus, I'll try to fill you in on my life on the big Red Island.
So..... I celebrated the holidays in Ile Sainte Marie, which is practically paradise on earth. I was fortunate enough to be with ten fellow Peace Corps volunteers, lounging on a beach while sipping coconut punch on Christmas day. It was glorious. Yet, the white sandy beaches, crystal clear water, and soft rustle of the palm trees, was still not the same as Christmas in the United States. (Translation: I missed everyone state side dearly.)
After Christmas, we headed back to Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar for New Years. I had a pleasant time at a fellow PCVs house eating "vazaha" (foreign) food and drinking champagne as the New Year approached. It really sounds like I'm struggling, doesn't it?
A few highlights and adventures from my trip:
1) On Christmas day, I hiked around a tiny island located next to Ile Sainte Marie. As we were hiking, the sun blaring down, high tide arrived, and we were forced to swim around part of the isle, avoiding sharp rocks and sea urchins as we swam. The sun was so strong that one of my friends got burned through his T-shirt!!
2) I rode in a taxi brousse with a dying man. Normally, taxi brousses are literally hell on earth. For those of you that don't know, a taxi brousse is translated as a "bush taxi." They are the main form of transportation in Madagascar. It's basically a large van with incredibly uncomfortable seats. Usually it looks like it's about to die or blow up. You ride in the brousse with screaming children, cats, chickens, geese, country folk with machetes, etc. The goal is basically to cram as many creatures into the brousse as humanly possible, and then some. It takes forever to get from point A to point B. However, with a dying man on board, we were able to fly to our destination!!! It was an experience.
3) CENSOR: FOR ADULT EYES ONLY!!!!!
Due to the fact that I am a Peace Corps volunteer and thus have a limited income, I am forced to stay in cheap hotels. In Tamatave, we accidently boarded in a pay-by-the-hour brothel!!!!! It was an experience to say the least! ....
ALRIGHT...... LIFE AT SITE:
Life in the hills of Ifanadiana is going really well. I LOVE my town. Everyday I spend at least two hours just walking around chatting with people. Everyone is quite nice, and I've started to make some really good friends. Every Friday I cook with a bunch of older women, which allows me to catch up on all the new gossip-- who's dating whom, who had yet another baby, who had his/her chickens stolen, etc. It's great.
Teaching is also going really well. I love my students, and they seem to enjoy me as well. It's so easy to entertain them with my dancing and crazy antics. Plus, they are quite diligent and seem to really want to learn English. In addition to teaching, I have an English Club at the high school and am starting a Girl's Club at the local CEG (middle school). I am also working on an educational field trip for my students with the goals of A) showing them a place outside of Ifanadiana and B) allowing them to explore some of their career options if they make it through school. Hopefully that will work out too!
A DAY IN MY LIFE:
Several people have been inquiring as to what exactly I do in a given day. So... here's a basic rundown.
5:30-6AM: Wake up (you can't stay asleep anyways due to the roosters) I've taken up jogging, so I start my morning with an hour jog into the countryside.
7AM: Cook breakfast, clean my house, prepare for the day, etc.
Three days a week a woman comes to my house and brings me buckets of water, which I use for cooking, bathing, etc.
Morning: Teach at the CEG or Lycee, depending on the day
Noon- 2pm: This is the alloted lunch time in Madagascar. Everything shuts down-- businesses, schools, stores. I usually cook lunch, read, play with kids, etc.
Afternoon: teach again, prepare lessons, walk around my community, play with kids, etc.
Evening: Our electricity has been going out a lot, which really cuts the evenings short. I tutor stuents in English at night, read a TON, write, etc.
On the weekends, there are sometimes dances at the community meeting room. You can also see movies for 200 ariary at someone's house. There are also a couple of bars where you can go for drinks.
It sounds like a pretty exciting life, doesn't it?! HAHAHA..... I seriously love it.
Other random stuff.....
So I should probably mention that I got malaria a few weeks ago. That was an experience that I'll never forget. I woke up with a really high fever and a terrible headache. My fever continued to rise. For those who have never experienced the joys of malaria, it feels like someone is squeezing your brain. At one point I couldn't speak clearly, creating sentences in a melange of French, English, and Malagasy. Thus, I came to Fianar, got some medicine, and VOILA-- good as new!
Well.... other than that, life continues to go well. Thank you very much to everyone who has sent letters and packages. They are really appreciated. I try to write back, but please keep in mind that postage is more expensive that two day's worth of food, and I am poor!!!
Some closing thoughts:
Not to lecture, but please keep in mind how lucky you are to live the lives that you live. We as Americans are so priveliged to have so many opportunities and amenities. People here have very little.... and yet they are happy. It often reminds me of what's really important in life and what's not. Material possessions do not buy happiness. :-) Just a little something I think about a lot here.....
Finally, for those of you that enjoy sending packages, here are some supplies/ goodies that I'd enjoy: (Mom uses flat rate boxes that she gets at the post office because any other method of shipping is way too expensive!!)
For my students:
construcion paper
markers
glue sticks
friendship bracelet thread
jump ropes
balls (soccer, etc.)
For me:
candy (chocolate!!)
raisins
trail mix
nuts (other than peanuts)
granola bars
oatmeal....single packs
I MISS YOU AND LOVE YOU DEARLY!!!!
All my love from across the ocean,
Maribeth